Languevoisin to Peronne. Canal du Nord.

Very ordinary weather - sweeping heavy rain showers coming up behind, soaking everything, and making boat filthy, then passing on and leaving sickly sun behind.

The canal here is huge, and a waterborne motorway.

We reckoned that traveling on Sunday would give us some relief from the incessant grinding peniche traffic - but no such luck.

Being Sunday, the regular L.K.s were replaced by students, and regrettably, with the amount and size of the traffic, and the enormous locks, this was a huge mistake - they were quite unable to manage, and were making stupid sloppy errors.

First lock, 1 peniche, 1 cruiser were let in, and we got red light. Fine, except there was plenty for room for us.

Then we are kept waiting way beyond time required to turn lock round while a solitary peniche grinds up through the mist from 3kms away.

Both boats - the peniche and us - enter on green and red. Absolutely forbidden, and singularly stupid - but what to do. Called him on VHF, asked permission to enter, but no answer.

Next lock, lunch time. Red light at last moment, although lock full and waiting. Idiot solemnly drains lock.

After lunch, re-fills lock, green light, and in we go.

Lock empties, gates open, we start exiting. 2 empty peniches outside, making to enter - quite fast - either they have received green light, or they are entering on red and green, although "empty" lock has an exiting boat in it.

S. driving, sees exit gap to one side narrowing rapidly. Yells of "go", "for Christ’s sake go". Went - self up front, as customary, doing ropes in these big locks. Peniches look even large from this end!

First peniche hit us on our side - hard. He was empty, very high, so could not be expected to see anything as low as us in that situation - but still addressed him suitably as we bounced off. He said - rather shamefacedly - that he hadn’t seen us! Of course he hadn’t - that’s what the L.K. is there for. However, as we recovered ourselves, and he re-covered himself - he had completely lost it and slammed into lock corner, - checked cabin, and boat attitude, it appeared we had lost or broken nothing in the cabin (we keep everything that is exposed on shelves and on cupboard tops static with "press-stic", or "tic-tac", and keep cupboards closed with heavy rubber bands - , and Albert did not appear to be sinking) deemed recovery was likely and imminent!

L.K. up in his glass cabin clearly totally out of his depth (pun not intended), and incapable of action. Good thing nothing worse had happened. Peniche scraped himself into lock, second peniche asked if we were OK - as indeed in all fairness we must say the first peniche did - and indicated sympathy and understanding.

Left them all to it, went round the corner, and served up hot sweet tea. Really - what a cock-up.

One now comes to the question - what should we have done to avoid the situation.

Firstly, thank goodness we were in a boat who’s sides are 6 mm steel - if we had been tupperware we would not have survived.

Beyond hoping that VNF put staff with reasonable level of training and competence into these very responsible positions, there is little else.

In future we will exit with our yellow beacon light flashing - but if the boat is invisible under a peniche's bows - the light will be as well! Also, I will take the VHF to the front when I go to do ropes, ready to try and stop everybody and everything in it’s tracks with suitable transmissions.

Afterwards, should we have contacted VNF - who and where on a Sunday in the holidays? Presumably they only have the "C" team on Sunday afternoons anyway because everyone with greater seniority and responsibility is off duty, and in August - believe it or not - most staff are sent on annual holiday, and replaced by the students, or temporary staff, anyway.

Continued to Peronne, promised P. de P. entered, but really quite a horrid place - tatty and under maintained.

Persuaded very pleasant Welshman on his way back from Med to move up, so we got 10 metres of the boat moored up.

Settled in, went to Capitainerie - part of enormous Camping Site - and found singularly unpleasant Nazi type female in charge, insisted on charging us full 13€ for 2 thirds space - offering us outside mooring on high tatty piece of junk boat, full length, if we wanted to change, at full price for what should have been half (2 boats breasted up should pay half mooring fee each).

Not in mood - or position - to argue, so the old cow got away with it!

In spite of more rain storms, and disturbing day, slept well.

Peronne to Cappy Canal du Somme

Spent profitable morning in Peronne Historial Museum, entirely devoted to the Great War in general, but particularly the Battles of the Somme.

Very interesting, but a little short on fact and displays, and long on spirituals for us. Masses of contemporary detail, and film footage. Fascinating, none the less. 29,000 killed before breakfast on a lovely summer’s morning.

Left P. de Unpl. just after mid-day, branched off Canal de Nord onto Canal du Somme almost at once, and underwentt complete life change!

Canal du Somme is, in fact, largely the river, with the canal cutting off the wilder sweeps.

It is relatively narrow, gloriously quiet (we met no-body at all) peaceful and bucolic.

Locks are manned by proper L.K.s in the open (naturally students - these locks are well within their capabilities), who see one is OK, and locks are only Freycinet size anyway.

Really pleasant afternoon’s run down, lots to see - small farming area, or rows of lakes in river valley - stopped at nice open informal moorings - holes in sheet piling - cut grass, next to Locaboat hire base.

Chairs and selves in and out for rest of day as showers came and went.

Met Germans Klaus and Dagmar from Chamade. Long gossip - huge cruiser, 3 weeks to do all of Belgium and Northern France.

Cappy to Chipilly Canal du Somme

Gently on down the Somme.

Much rain, and continual rain avoidance drill - 2 of us frantically donning rainjackets, putting down cockpit cover, putting up brolley, putting away books, maps, and other wet vulnerable article, all in about 5 seconds flat in a space the size of an ordinary loo, while the boat - which does not have self centring or static steering goes it's own way.  Very bad temper making.

Stopped at Chipilly, beaten by the rain. Poor camping site mooring, chalk mud - no grass - but proper fixed jetty, so Albert comfortable and safe - strong currant.

During dry period in evening took bikes for wander round - as is out custom.

Beautiful country, and behind Chipilly slight hill lifts one above Somme Valley, and gives tremendous views.

The countryside here is incredibly green - a great change after l’Oise and l’Aisne, which were parched.

Visited 2 War Graves Cemeteries - feelings private.

The cemeteries themselves are beautifully sited, presented, and maintained, - as are the French ones alongside.

Famous sculpture.

Chipilly to Amiens. Canal du Somme

NOT gently down the Somme - very fast down the Somme - it flows faster and faster, the lower down one gets., as more and more tributaries and étangs drain in.

Weather pretty foul, and by the look of the landscape, it has been for a while - it is, however, very green and lush looking. Nice.

All down beside the canalised river are apparently old peat workings for many centuries, which form the étangs - teaming with fish (!) the Some is famous for. Don’t believe they can all be - certainly the ones around Amiens are/were.

2 locks up got really quite interesting - flow increased inordinately. Tried to moor up to a dumb barge blocking a jetty for lunch, but lost it, stern swung out into the current and couldn’t get it back, so released front, and continued on down, have given the barge a good belt.

Into Amiens, looking for moorings we had been told about. Sure enough, city moorings found, and found with plenty of room.

Moored up connected electricity, and found nothing!    Wanted it to do computing, clothes washing, etc.

Saw notice directing us to Info Office for jeton electro-magnetic system. Went on up to Info Office, were told it was broken, but somebody would be down shortly to fix us up.

Went to cathedral - most satisfactory visit - very old, and incredibly huge. Beautifully kept, and presented, and no visible war or erosion damage to any of the stone carvings on the outside - marvelous.   See carvings - incfuding slightly macabre ones.

Down to boat, to be greeted by Françoise from Info Dept, who knew where we were "having seen our bikes". We seem to be instantly recognizable, whatever we do. She very kindly got the system going for us, and stayed and had a quick - and very small - drink. Very enjoyable and useful gossip.

Reason for fast current - river only opened to plaisanciers in June (now they tell us) - because of heavy rain in late winter filling all the etangs. The navigable part of the river and canal used to carry it off, but with the cessation of commercial peniches, there is now dredging or scouring of the sides or bottoms of the waterways, so the bottom is too near the surface, reducing the cross-sectional area available for water to flow in. Thus to clear itself, the water must flow faster!

To bed, thinking "will we have enough" - or rather - "do we have enough power to get us back up the river and canal".

Amiens River Somme.

Took tour of Somme Battle Fields by minibus.

Had to be in Albert - the town, not the boat - by 10.30, so had to get a train at 0820, after horribly early rise.

Visited several large cemeteries, including Newfoundland Canadian Park, which includes an area of trenches of both sides - opposite each other - left as they were, but now grassed over, and a pock of shell holes.

Also visited the main Thiepval monument to the 76,000 missing, bodies never found.

Kevin and Sarah from the tour party who had come by car, gave us a lift back to Amiens, saving us a 3.5 hour wait for return from Albert!

Arrived just in time to see - from the car - a huge Belgium ship breasted up to Albert. By the time we got out of the car they were busy disentangling their lines and moving onto the jetty. Suspect they had made a cock of turning in the current, and missed their spot.

To little S.M. right by Cathedral. Although labeled Echo Marchee, actually a Petit Casino, and stocked up, carrying with rucksacks. For second time, found "no carte bancaire" - no debit cards.

Out to supper - canal-side, thence up to the Cathedral for lit up display. By some means we don’t understand they light up the stone figures, that in the daytime are just stone coloured, so that all their clothes, hats, etc are the colours they were originally painted hundreds of years ago when they were carved. A truly amazing - and beautiful - sight.

Amiens to Corbie. Canal du and River Somme.

Got up to rain, and it rained virtually all morning - indeed all day!

Decided, in view of poor weather, and perceived possibility of river flooding, and concern over speed of flow through Amiens, that come what may, we must get above Corbie - above the confluence of the l’Ancre and other feeders - before night.

Commitments precluded departure before lunch - busy and stressful life, this boating.

Visit to Laundromat essential, further supplies require from S.M. and wanted to see choir stalls in Cathedral. Managed all 3 - choir stalls have some 1400 hand carved decorative figures on or around - very old, beautifully done, and visits limited to certain hours under supervision.

Started unraveling ourselves from quay about 13.30 after lunch. Belgian in ship next door hovered over us, wanting our - the only one working - electric point. Found a message on our answer phone asking us to share with him - would have been happy to do so, so long as he didn’t use immersion heater - but most untrustworthy and arrogant gentleman. "(how did you get that little boat to France)".

Did some fancy footwork in the current, got Albert t’other way round - we had, against custom, but because of our hatch and the high quay moored facing down stream - then put foot, "greyhound of the Ocean" style got ourselves up through the bridge and away.

It rained and got dark, so lit yellow flashing beacon, cut all corners, and took line of least current - inside the bends! Met lots of rowers from local rowing club, complete with their attendant coach in red plastic outboard launch. Great fun - coach tried to organize them all safely past us - we didn’t dare reduce speed - but the only craft in danger was he himself, as he insisted on navigating whilst facing backwards watching his rowers.

Other hazard - locks, naturally, have strong river cross flow below them. However, it appears to be custom on part of L.K.s to keep boats hopping around in cross flow, even though they - the L.K.s - know they are on their way (there are 2 to 3 boats a day on the navigation alto-gether) - rather than have gates open and waiting. Maddening!

Eventually, as we passed various river inlets, current got less, stress got less, and even the rain eased up. Cup of tea all round, with cake.

Fetched up on nice formal mooring - outside silo 50 metres from lock, partly hire boats and partly probably private owners on holiday with boats elsewhere - at Corbie at about 1800. Moored up, and went round town on bikes, sat in remains of cloudy sun and started drinks. Had to nip inside quite soon, but the gesture had been made. There is another mooring by a campsite about 300 metres further up the canal on the other side (rive droigt) which looks quite nice from waterside, but is actually horrid - high step down from pile capping.

Corbie to Cappy. Canal du and River Somme.

Started day with bread purchase and hair cut. Unfortunately chose high class establishment for hair cut, very nicely cut by young girl, but not nearly short enough!

Off up river/canal. Current now negligible, but still went slowly - nice country, bit closed in by trees.

No rain except a few spots at lunch time.!

We are so attuned to rain now, that the onset of a few spots signals complete rain precautions, as described earlier.

Lunch at Chipilly, where we picked up a poor unfortunate yachtie in a tiny yacht (French) making for Soissons. Although there are only about 4 boats a day alto-gether, and the locks are river locks, they were still made to wait up to half an hour for us! It appears the students are taught their lock-keeping by rote, parrot fashion, and although the yachtie tried to show them in words of one syllable not to open the paddle on the same side of the lock as the boats, I don't think he got anywhere.

Stopped off at "petit train" jetty, with some thought of going round museum in train’s absence - it had left 30 minutes before - but whole place was dead and locked. although odd lights were visible inside. Lots of cars in car park - all very strange.

Waited about 15 minutes, then came on up to Cappy, and - after prolonged committee meeting - settled down on identical spot moored to on Sunday.