1999

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August 22
Sunday
Ambievilliers to "peu Quai d'amarrage" above lock 43 - near place we came upon the singing Swiss on July 15th.
Weather fine, and felt we deserved a day off - after long day yesterday, and the week's filthy weather.
Set out straight after coffee, before breakfast, with fixed intention of finding nice mooring for breakfast.
Found a suitable one quite soon - low bank, deep water, and strong smell of crushed bracken, no-where in particular, but very pleasant, partial shade to full sun.
Moored up, traditional boiled eggs, and for the first time in the whole trip, were able to sit in the sun on the bank for breakfast!
Departed in due course very gently, through same country we came up through (not unnaturally - same canal, but opposite direction), but, if possible, prettier and greener now, until found sunny and shaded mooring just beyond "singing Swiss" moorings.
However, we are back into hire boat country, and although we are fully aware that, in France, as well as in England, if there were no hirers there would be no waterways for us to play on, we find them, on the whole, a screaming menace - even though we have visited and made friends with quite a few. They put too many people, and too much power on boats with appalling underwater configurations, and - naturally - the people are in too much of a hurry to enjoy their short 6 days and charge around like uncontrollable hydraulic rockets.
Countryside all amazingly green - even right up to Neuve Maisons and out beyond Nancy as a result of very wet year. No sign of normal August dry barrenness and long shaggy dead grass. Indeed, it appears that VNF are having to do extra grass-cuttings down canal sides.
Pleasant chill-out day sitting in sun/shade/dappled shade reading books. Didn't even get around to boat cleaning - must be slipping badly.
 
August 23
Monday
"peu Quai d'amarrage" above lock 43 on the Canal de l'Est (Branch Sud) through Corre to Baulay on the Petite Saonne
We like Mondays - all the people who come out and play with our toys, fill our space and generally patronise the silly old farts on the funny little "petit bateau Anglais" over the week-end have gone back to work leaving us in peace
Clear, sunny, getting a bit overcast and muggy to-wards evening. Sweatshirts to start, but definitely still shorts and summer shirt for rest of day
To-day's run more like early days'. Nothing to do or worry about except driving boat, it's dirtiness, and where to have lunch and where to moor up. (and where the last lot of idiot hirers are hiding)!
Made quick and sudden boat move after cooking breakfast, and before eating it - porridge - some 20 yards along the canal into the sun. This was after we had the blow heater on by our bed for about 10 minutes while drinking coffee. This is an indication of current temperatures.
Got into Corre - head of Petite Saonne, and end of Canal de l'Est - at about 11.30, after painless run through last 4 or 5 "zapper" locks. Enjoyed this stretch - sun out and narrow wooded valley opening out to bucolic riverine lands, and everything ours.
Moored in the Port de Plaisance at Corre - greeted as old friends by Mme Capitaine, didn't know whether ought to do double cheek to cheek - didn't but shook M. by the hand in approved continental/Afrikaans fashion - and misjudged current (shouldn't have been any, but simultaneous lock movements above and below buggered the issue.
Mad dash for S.M. before they close at 1200. The big one was closed, anyway, being Monday, but made Mme la Spar, where peace and tranquillity reigned, and everything was obtained - at a price.
Amusing time watching "motor salesman" type, dressed in white canvas slacks. and striped office shirt turned back at wrists, with long frocked motor salesman type wife, and motor salesman type children (shaven headed lad, trying to be technically intelligent, and would be beautiful pony tailed daughter with short white socks, trailing Mum, all taking over a huge hire boat.
Had lunch under tree at Capitainery, and then leaving amidst endless protestations of good will, and intentions of meeting next year.
We know this part of the Petite Saonne quite well - or at least we thought we did. Going the other way, but above all the incredible green-ness has made it into almost unknown territory.
River flow very slow, but psychological feeling the current is with us, meant that we came down at half to three-quarters throttle feeling we were going like the bats.
Wandered down through 2 locks and 4 or 5 kms, met 3rd lock at about 16.30 after 2 very feeble attempts to rain, and decided to stop on low bank.
Country wide agricultural valley, very pleasant. Mooring not far from railway line (very smart trains, but line not over busy), and quite close to farm steadings, and within sight of very square church with decorated tiles roof. It is quite nice interspersing total solitude with the odd bit of "civilisation" for a change - most of the River Saonne runs through settled country - or rather - settlers settled the R. Saonne???
Evening - S. to sketching painting kick (done quite a lot, recently), self to evening (1700) drinks on bank + Dick Francis, watching hire boats through lock no 3 some 500 metres downstream.
 
August 24
Tuesday
Baulay to Scey sur Saonne
Good weather, warming up again.
Really beautiful morning, crisp, cool, clear sky, bright sun, getting warmer.
Managed to get going at about 1100, after beard trim, and procrasination.
Steady run down river
Lunch tied up in the shade of trees.
Tied up to fishing place - had to wait till half dressed fishing couple left - fine view.
[On editing this I have to emphasise that the "fine view" above was actually a typing error due to the Didgery getting out of control. Te phrase should have been written "fine view up valley", which indeed there was, we were moored up at the exit to the river valley, where it narrowed, and there was a superb view back over the valley floor.
 
August 25
Wednesday
Scey sur Saonne to just above Seveux.
Lunch - steaming hot - on edge of hay field, having jungle bashed up a backwater in fierce competition with hire boats to get similar spots at Ray sur Saonne.
Air on river totally without movement, but up on banks a little - very little, and hot.
Very hot run all day, probably as hot as any this summer - terrific weather variations, although trees definitely showing autumn with Poplars shedding leaves.
Tied up at 1530 - too hot to go on, in shade but shallow water.
Made with big gang plank, books and drinks following shade around in a little copse of trees until 1730, then decided not to go on.
Changed engine oil, changed gas cylinder.
Last thing at night - after 21.30 - just on way to bed - when 3rd loaded peniche to-day, covered in lights, charged past down river.
Notice that most appear to have radar, and that both bridge arches and shoal beacons have radar targets - 3d triangles of metal. - eith stuck on top of poles above, or on great long gantries - in the case of bridges - 20 or 30 ft out from footings on all arch supports.
 
 
 
August 26
Thursday
Recologne les Rays to Mantoche
Slight rain in night reduced appalling heat, but still muggy.
Started in mild rain, grey, overcast.
Visited Saone Plaiasance - Nanni Agents - to ask about drive plate. Bit inconclusive, they only have 3 cyl Nannis in their hire boats. Try discussing something as technical as this in French!
Boat sounds so good after yesterday's oil change - maybe just using too thin oil for hot conditions - had also forced fresh oil through stern gland seal - was this relevant? Or is the whole business of excess noise paranoia, anyway?
Lock 13, after tunnel manned - first on river - leaks in wall pissed all over boat.
Paused at Lock 14 - manned - impressed to find wild autumn crocuses flowering on side of lock cut.
Starting to leave endless trees on river side which have cut us off since yesterday. Where we can see it, land is flattish and open, with small fields and copses, and frequently no fence between fields, or different crops.
Maize still standing, full height and tasselled. Hay being taken off everywhere, still use tedders, but also cotton reel binders.
Had lunch on move, as no-where convenient to stop, with trees down to both waters' edge.
Into Gray about 1630
Fascinated to see swans laboriously trudging up the steep weedy slope of the wier - for weed on the wier or to get into the higher pound without going up the lock or flying?
Straight to S.M. for heavy shop - incl 2 cases of the 30 cl bottles of Kanterbrau (20% extra gratuit) we last saw sat Challon sur Soane, and that were stolen off the boat at Besancon.
Decided to pull out of Gray - still muggy, overcast and breathless - no air movement whatsoever - so packed up, and just casting off when Scots couple on the fishing boat "Akamas" pulled in. Last seen in Nancy. They obviously had an arrangement with "Skitavit II" (arranged VHF?) to breast up, so that their 3 ft odd was afloat.
Left Gray - thankfully - at about 1730+ , making own breeze as we went along. Several showers of rain, then into Mantoche, only 2 boats on the mooring, but sundry lads fishing.
Rain drove them off. Hope they stay away - this is where we had trouble on the up. (They didn't - hung about the loos, smoking)
Went for a walk around village.
Moorings filled up completely, as before, by dark.
More, and seemingly continuous, rain.
Spent evening happily "converting" this to the P.C.
In between rain saw moon. Erudite conversation about it being 28 days since eclipse, since moon obviously full the, or eclipse wouldn't have been total.
 
August 27th
Friday
Mantoche to just above Auxonne.
Again overcast and muggy, but a bit cooler.
Quiet night last night - children dispersed by rain, so little interruption after 9.00 p.m..
Set off on quieter part of river- locks and moorings far apart - odd village with w/e shacks for fishermen and a few caravans - just like Severn and Avon - horrid.
Both sides of river heavily wooded nearly all the way.
On down river - unable to remember anything about our trip up, so it must have been raining, or dull, or both.
This is not the most exciting part of the trip, long reaches, heavily wooded, or long straight featureless lock cuts - can't hare everything!
Lunch on the hoof - no-where nice to stop, but saw nice spot below Pontailler sur Saone in the trees, and stopped for an hour and dossed
Continued on down through 19, seriously looking for overnighters.
Parameters of shade, deep water, low steep bank, short firm grass, breeze, good outlook, quiet, and total privacy difficult to fullfill.
Spent an hour wandering up and down looking - trying 2 spots, and pulling out.
Pulled out of one spot straight across river, and on looking under my left elbow on the tiller, discovered a laden peniche charging up beside us.
Embarrassing - obviously I didn't look behind before leaving bank.
Put foot and disappeared fast.
Eventually found near ideal overnighter - except for a very old fisherman's shack, and pile of charcoal from a braai, and shallow water.
Did gang plank moor up - sun now out, having burnt off mist in course of day - no wind, and very sweaty.
Chairs and drinks on bank. Swans tried to share.
Cooled off later appreciably, and much entertained by another peniche going completely flat-out down river.
They have virtually round bows, and their bow-wave comes up about 6 ft in front. There is then an enormous hollow in the water, before it becomes normal bow and stern waves.
The wash on river banks is horrendous, but all vulnerable banks are protected.
Albert gets pushed well up, but normally we 4 pin moor. To-night, hopefully, she is thoroughly aground, so it won't matter. However, we still need a gang-plank to get ashore - we always take the chairs ashore and sit in the open if we possibly can - shades of my mother?
Much e-mailing - Ruth X 2, Floss & Sam.
 
August 28th
Saturday
Just above Auxonne to P.K. 217 1 km above St Jean de Losne.
Cool night, and morning with sun doing it's shining through early morning mist trick, which usually means very hot later on.
Much fun un-mooring.
This has top be done in the right order of untieing ropes, lifting pegs, making sure nothing is left behind on bank, getting moorer on board before boat drifts away, lifting and/or re-covering gang plank, recovering ropes, all with-out losing boat, losing personel, losing pegs, putting rope round propellor, then getting boat out and under way without collecting shore, weed or rocks with prop, and withall maintaining an air dignity, control and competance.
Last night we were idle and tied up to trees.
Both mooring ropes were just a matter of 6" too short to tie nicely, so lengthened, most professionally with double sheet bends, using short mooring ropes.
These extensions, should, of course, have been removed quite early in the unmooring process.
One wasn't, so when pulling round tree to release it, it jammed in a fork. The gangplank was up, tiller shipped, boat drifting away from shore. Ouch.
Pier head jump into nettles and mud, but all came right, and we didn't even have a committee meeting.
Slightly dull run down to Auxonne (tree ined river, hiding countryside), to public mooring - very neat pontoon - for bread and laundry-mat. Regrettably, our spin drier won't quite work on boat's electricity - should in theory, easily, but proably won't, due to low voltage.
My hand held voltmeter/ammeter/ohmeter that was stolen from Sapekoe about 30 years ago died at the beginning of the trip. (The needle fell off)
Have to visit a "bricolage" or Tandy - or have a birthday.
Anyway, every piece of clothing, towels, bedding up for a wash.
Meantime cleaned outside of boat both sides, and hoovered inside, she was perfectly disgusting after all the rain and windborne dust on the outside, and grass and rubbish on the inside.
Laundry came back for re-packing last time it was my Ratty towel, this time my pyjama trousers - gone but pas forgotten. Tpoo late - 10 kms down river by the time discovery made.
Lunch in shade by moorings at Auxonne - hot by now, and left soon after. General post with hire boats - it has been major hire boat country since Fontenoy le Chateau, more so since Gray, and now very much so. Some of them are huge "ships" with 3+ bathrooms, 3+ loos (seperate), and sleep an army.
Picked up water at lock below Auxonne - hose was lieing out, so why not?
Result was we came down the rest of the afternoon to St J. de L. in head down position - full water, and only about 8 gallons of diesel out of 40 capacity. (Excluding 2 reserve jerricans).
Afternoon passed slowly, very hot, bright brassy sun, and breeze was with us and same speed, and both boat and we seemed sluggish!
Moored up about 4.30 - somewhat harassed by buzz boats, which should not be here, but in their own area downstream. (Try telling that to a Frenchman).
Also, it is turn round day in the hire base at St. J de L, and they are coming out
Mooring near perfect, short grassed firm area for chairs in shade, steep low bank, except booby trap of barbed wire in nettles where the one and only mooring pin HAD to be inserted. (Other 2 lines on trees)
Whilst watching hirers go out, read brochure. They are ripped off. On top of hire charge, they pay cleaning and damage deposits, they pay car parking, they pay fuel used, they pay bike hire, and some of the boats are 20 to 25 years old. (Some are split new, spanking, and super, though. We passed an enormous - 5 cabin? - Penichete yesterday - damn near collected him, I was slightly cutting the corner and she - young dolly bird driving - was going too fast and too wide).
Feature of this trip has been the Kingfishers. In England we were overjoyed if we saw 1 per week. Here, since the spring, we have seen at least 1 every other day, and for the past 2 weeks coming down the Canal de l'Est and the Petite Saone, it has been several each day.
To-day we watched 2 playing "Bttle of Britain" all round the boat. Were they 2 males fighting for territory, a couple playing, or youngsters practising skills? Don't know, but they are great fun, and a magnificent spectacle.
Noticeable that we are very much back in French (as opposed to German) France. Architecture - roof lines all higgledy piggledy in villages,under lovely orange ceramic tiles frequently cock-eyed, white Charolais cattle with dung coloured fans on their backsides, language etc, etc, etc.