-
- June 30
- Wednesday
- Thorais to Orchamps.
- Day started with a thoroughly enjoyable and very
noisy row between a German hire boat, and a German private boat in the lock
coming up. The front boat, the hirer, had pulled the tirette whilst the other
was still coming through the gate, and nipped him. (so we gather - we missed the
start). We entered the lock from above whilst they cooled off, and Madame
Leclusiere ran the lock - after she, in turn, had been roundly cursed by her
husband for not sorting it all out whilst he was busy preparing for a big-wig
inauguration of the "halte nautique" by the prefect to-morrow.
- Good fun - and unfortunate wording thought up
for those silly stickers in car windows of "Lock Keepers do it
manually".
- Passed by the froggy mooring unregretfully at Osselle -
no Bill did not want to go and use his private pissoir again.
- Steadily getting hotter and brighter.
- Watered at Saint-Vit - entire moorings and
canalside occupied by rows of Dutch boats of all sizes having lunch at the
restaurant (presumably - there was no one about) so breasted up to some
unsuspecting cruiser, and filled tank and moved on.
- Pleasant run - particularly along the
agricultural flat lands after the "froggy" mooring, where France
proper seems to start, and France/Switzerland/Germany - although enjoyed - is a
memory.
- Stopped for night at Orchamps in the cut
opposite caravan and camp site, on a grassy bank - some resistance from rest of
party who wanted to go to Rochefort pontoon.
- Had passed a lot of boats, so took management
decision to moor up where we could be reasonably comfortable, rather than go on
to the pontoon at Rochfort sur Nennon, and find it full, and no-where - quite
literally - else to moor.
-
-
- July 1
- Thursday
- Ochards to Dole.
- Set off betimes - no-one actually said anything
when we passed empty pontoon at Rochefort, but the fact that it was empty at
11.00 a.m. did not mean it was empty last night.
- Lock above Dole chained shut, and polite young
man tried his English "V.N.F. regret etc but due to circumstances beyond
control, etc etc".
- Communication all round collapsed whilst we
agreed in Fractured French that the problem was something had worn out, but he
agreed in Entwined English that the L.K. (all over France) were on strike.
A bloke came and cut the chain and let us
through - we thought he was being kind, but actually they wanted to get all the
boats off the waterways onto moorings.
Thus we were faced with a stay in Dole of
indeterminate length - and it was now bloody hot.
Moored up - second attempt in strong current
- to same finger pontoons we used on the way
up. 4 moorings into "reserve etc", and waited for someone to charge us
or object.
Nothing, so set up usual gypsy encampment of
chairs and drinks under trees in shade, whilst boat sizzled.
In fact there were only 5 or 6 boats held up -
all German &/or Swiss - the entire hire fleet of 16 plastic horrors was
moored up, but this may have been sales problems, and nothing to do with the
strike.
Went down to the lock and had a gossip with the
L.K. doing picket line, to find out what it was all about. Recognized 2 out of
3, and they all knew Albert well - they call her the "Banana Boat"
because of her bow shape. All very friendly and Fr answered in Ent Eng to
everyone's confusion and amusement. They are objecting to the installation of
automatic machinery at the locks!
It subsequently transpired that only the locks
at and below Dole were affected - all the automatics right up to the top were
functional, although boaters were given instructions to stop over and moor up.
Those that did were not thanked - most didn't.
Went on to "Mr. Bricolage" (French
version of B. & Q. - very good) and bought an extension lead for boat
electrics lead. Back to boat to fix up electrics so we could have fan on
permanently. Walking in sun, of course, so deeply frazzled by now.
Bill had been shopping again - be all right if
he bought something sensible - this time he produced a yellow cardigan and more
pastries.
Sent him up to the bank and rly station to
enquire about trains to Paris, while us 3 went on an infuriatingly indeterminate
domestic shop. Got a box of nice red - repeat of box bought on way up, and a
whole lot of other junk.
July 2
Friday
In Dole.
Hung around, waiting for strike to be over - hot
and bothered.
S. went shopping with Bill and Angela.
Spent most of day sitting under trees drinking
beer in extreme heat, as more boats arrived, not to leave.
Albert just sat in full heat of sun and frazzled
- horrid.
Finally heard at 1500 that strike was over, but
really too late to get to anywhere but the lavatory factory, so decided to start
back to-morrow, when everything had settled down.
Fridge began objecting in the evening - too many
people opening and fiddling with it and the shoreside power only works our 240
volt stuff, does not yet charge our batteries or supply 12 volts. Ran engine on
fast idle for 30 minutes, and all was well.
Wandered round Dole after dark, admiring
illuminations - the cathedral, brightly lit, looked quite beautiful with all the
higgledy-piggledy house roofs acting as silhouetted fore drop.
July 3
Saturday
Dole to St Jean de Losne.
Steady but gentle run down out of the canal in
extreme heat.
Found shady spot for lunch a few hundred metres
above lavatory factory - if we'd soldiered on for those few extra minutes on the
way up, we would have had a much better mooring on our first night with the
Thornes. Put the chairs out on grass in the shade, all properly done! On after
lunch, through all locks fully and properly manned (!)
Out into river in afternoon past a house with an
enormous Kiwi flag hanging from it, to Bill's evident excitement!
Nice to be in slightly cleaner water on river -
could see a fan of the disgusting muck coming down the canal on it's surface.
Into St Jean de Losne, stopped at bunker ship,
and filled up with diesel (35 galls used since Digoin - about 1 gall per day)
and bought second French gas cylinder. Altogether over Fr 1100. Ouch!
Went through lock at St J. de L. into Burgogne,
and moored up in shade of tree like last time we were here.
Bill wanted to take us all out to supper, but
sod's law dictated that the auberge he had chosen was closed on Saturdays, so
chose another in town.
Got lift in - nice place on river front
overlooking boats, but food not really up to much. Shame.
Unfortunately, after good dinner, and lots to
drink, had to help S home - she seemed to be unable to walk straight. Curious.
To bed for last night in cramped conditions!
Still very hot.
July 4
Sunday
St Jean de Losne to P.K. 227 up river.
Was elected to go and buy bread. Sent the longest short cut ever, and got
bloody hot walking it.
After breakfast moved boat around down through lock (watered up in lock) to
main river jetty.
Thornes left in taxi about 11.30 for train to Dijon, and thence Paris.
Absolutely fabulous to have boat to ourselves.
Charged around looking for open supermarket.
Found one in Losne - other side of big road bridge. Inspanned rucksack and
trolley, as we needed loo paper, beer and drinking water. Plus endless other
odds and ends.
Making slow and stately way around, when
realised they shut at 12.00, and it was 12.00. Frantic finishing off - French
S.M. don't cash up all the customers in the store, they have a reputation for
shutting the tills smack on time, and shooing you out without your shopping!
Thought about and enjoyed having the boat to
ourselves for a bit, but too hot to hang around for long, so set off up river on
our St. J de L. to Corre bit on the Petite Saonne. Not much small about the
river at present.
Nothing to distinguish P.K. 227, nothing to show
it even exists - but moored on East side of river at about 1800 at aprox
position. This was so that, although we were in sun at present, to-morrow
morning would be in shade, and we could keep boat cool for as long as poss.
Didn't work out like that - boat was already
sizzling after morning in St J. de L., and another 2 hours of sun made it hotter
still..
Because of the heat, did not move back to own
bedroom - used fan as much as we dared and needed.
Every possible spot on banks had white plastic
boats pic-nicking. One set even had a curtain all round their spot on the bank -
nude?
Panting hot, but at least we could have showers
without being decent.
P.K. 227 up river Saonne to P.K. 243
Quite right - this morning we were in shade, but sky clouded over, and much
cooler anyway, so not a lot gained.
Started off overcast, and much cooler.
Up to now Saonne has been very wide, with heavy trees on the sides providing
shade, but cutting off the view. Now banks are much lower, and more open.
Nasty experience in river lock just below Auxonne -keeper put us right up
front with very long ropes, then filled much too fast, and threw us around like
a cork. Lost control (we were roped each end), couldn't hold one rope, boat got
free and hit the lock wall very hard. Only damage, fortunately, was the Thames
Lock plate fell off it's hanging, and broke.
Whilst this was the L.K.'s fault (the recent strike was all about stopping
development of automatic locks, in favour of keeping staff on to man them) we
strongly suspect that his position was new, and possibly temporary. He
undoubtedly did not know what he was doing, and from his cabin couldn't even see
us! It was noticeable that the hanging tirette in front of the lock had only
just been removed, as well.
However, the boat is ours, and it is up to us to stop them roping us badly or
uncomfortably, and to
Came into Auxonne about midday, very good town moorings, so stopped to
investigate lemonade - which had been forgotten in supermarket shop yesterday.
S. found a Laundromat so we charged up with two sets of bedding (Thornes and
ours - we still sleep to-gether after 2 months on the boat), and the dictionary.
Had the place to ourselves whilst we sorted out instructions,
"methodology", etc, amidst much back-chat. It was after 1200 by now,
and no-body to be seen to help, so had to find a cafe/bar that would give me
change.
Main problem was that slots bunged up after 3 coins, and the thing needed 5,
but there was a little sign above in French (not unnaturally) saying push the
previous coin with the next and it will work. Fine, until 5 are in - can't give
them another coin to push the right amount in, so there was elderly English gent
poking at French Laundromat with pen-knife. I am glad no-one saw, but it worked.
Clean clothes, clean bedding, but all slightly damp, so hung all over the
boat. Nearly lost "Ratty" towel - got left in machine, but seems
French are basically honest, as we found it later in the afternoon on top of one
of the machines.
Through next lock - no problem, chap knew the form, lived at the lock, and
was much more careful - apart from the fact that I went up the ladder and fixed
our own ropes! In fact we were at the back, and needn't have roped at all.
July 3
Saturday
Dole to St Jean de Losne.
Steady but gentle run down out of the canal in extreme
heat.
Found shady spot for lunch a few hundred metres above
lavatory factory - if we'd soldiered on for those few extra minutes on the way
up, we would have had a much better mooring on our first night with the
Thornes. Put the chairs out on grass in the shade, all properly done! On after
lunch, through all locks fully and properly manned (!)
Out into river in afternoon past a house with an
enormous Kiwi flag hanging from it, to Bill's evident excitement!
Nice to be in slightly cleaner water on river - could
see a fan of the disgusting muck coming down the canal on it's surface.
Into St Jean de Losne, stopped at bunker ship, and
filled up with diesel (35 galls used since Digoin - about 1 gall per day) and
bought second French gas cylinder. Altogether over Fr 1100. Ouch!
Went through lock at St J. de L. into Burgogne, and
moored up in shade of tree like last time we were here.
Bill wanted to take us all out to supper, but sod's
law dictated that the auberge he had chosen was closed on Saturdays, so chose
another in town.
Got lift in - nice place on river front overlooking
boats, but food not really up to much. Shame.
Unfortunately, after good dinner, and lots to drink,
had to help S home - she seemed to be unable to walk straight. Curious.
To bed for last night in cramped conditions! Still
very hot.