Set alarm to wake us at 0730. Clever - didgery still timed for English
winter time.
Programme for day - shopping.
Food, long term, and French gas regulator and electrical adapters.
Food easy, small supper market 350 yards (300 metres) from boat.
Found way to "bricolage" eventually after much querying
(difficult, as most retail businesses stay open on Sundays till mid-day, and
take Monday off, and we had to find open shops that would direct us.).
Eventually found it on a retail park - cross between Home Base and Leakes.
Then realised that had forgotten to check whether we burnt Butane or Propane
on boat. Difficult.
Settled for Propane - on a whim. Bought regulator - ensuring that we could
change it if it was wrong (say that in French when all you know is "la
plume de ma tante") and found electric adapter for our shore wire to
French standard. All moorings have electricity laid on - but most of them
don't work. Again, a guess, as had forgotten what we had, so went by colour of
plastic fitting.
Trudged back to town, to supermarket, and bought and bought. Crisis at check
out - we haven't got enough cash.
Had plenty, but got thrown out at 12.30 - they take their dinner hour very
seriously. Enormous heavy rucksack to boat, small rucksack, and 3 plastic
bags.
Found fittings were the right ones.
Started raining heavily (been cold all morning, got up into winter clothes)
after lunch, but second visit necessary to supermarket.
Got away from moorings upriver (south) at 1530 - had to go to charge boat
batteries) in teeming rain - but not too (English) cold.
2 locks and an hour later found lovely village, with lovely moorings -
Chevroches.
Stopped for night - hard work, this boating.
Went for walk round village - great on river meanders several millennia ago
- but had to come in - rain and chill.
Replaced displaced firebricks (got dinged out of place on trip over) in
stove and lit
Nice and warm and cosy - watched hire boat negotiate lock in pissing rain
through smoke.
May 18
Tuesday
Chevroches to Tannay.
Rained till long after we went to bed - steadily and thoroughly.
Morning overcast, misty, but dry with promise of clear up.
S. went round village again with camera, whilst self did boat things (?)
cannot remember what, but busy pottering. Probably tightened fan belt, checked
gear box oil, and faffed about.
Set off in fine but windy weather about 1100.
Lovely sunny run through best country yet - very rural, with charolais
cattle quite literally waste deep in butter-cup meadows.
This area looks like what we all imagine rural England to have been like 100
years ago.
Mostly deep grassed meadow, cattle, no people, roads or houses, small
fields, hedges, and all incredibly green and peaceful and restful, and great
to look at and pass through, and probably desperately frustrating to live in
the 20/21st century - especially in French.
Stopped at Villiers sur Yonne - best moorings and prettiest village yet.
Walked around, bought bread at the "boulanger/boulangeries".
Archetypal as seen in films and described in books. Dark and dingy, nothing
for sale but bread - only visible stock 5 baguettes on a table. 2 old men
standing at a counter with a half full tumbler each and chewing dry bread, and
a bottle of something - not wine - on the counter in front of them, presided
over by the harridan. Quite filthy, unshaven - as was the harridan, but all 3
very welcoming and helpful!
Wandered back to boat, had coffee, and decided that not even we could not
knock off at 12.20 and have lunch, so pushed on.
Silliest decision ever, as arrived in 300 yards at lock, in nice time for
him to knock off for his lunch - 12.30 - 1300.
Thus gilled around in dull lock approach when we could have been on lovely
moorings.
We had already met the lock-keeper further back - they all run 2 or more
locks, dashing up and down the towing-path in little vans and cars, and made
friends whilst "discussing" learning French/English and doing up
lock cottage as home. Unfortunately he was doing it by plastering over the 165
year old stonework - distressed chalk stone, that seems to achieve a certain
degree of tattiness, then doesn't get any worse. He was putting nice windows
and shutters in, though.
He had, as we as we could see, come down to help his mate, whilst
shepherding us through his patch.
The mate did the same and saw us through the next 3 or 4 locks, so we didn't
stop for lunch, until about 1500 - very hungry.
Stopped in woods, in dappled shade and put chairs and table out, and ate -
baguettes, cheese, tongue, and proper tomatoes.
Both fell asleep in chairs!
On after mutual "pull yourself to-gether", through very heavy
wind-it-up lift bridge, and more locks, until the Tannay staircase double
lock. 5 metres rise, and a jovial rogue who believed in opening all his
paddles as quickly as he could.
How the hire boats cope, one shudders to think.
Shortly after into Tannay itself. Formal very dull moorings opposite a hire
base, and near a road.
However, clothes washing was a must, and a very violent thunderstorm was
brewing, then happening, then going over, for the next 3 hours, so probably as
well we were not moored up in the country.
May 19
Wednesday
Tannay to Chitrys-les-Mines
Morning promising - but rain with us in form of heavy thunderstorm, by lunch
time.
However - only edge touched us, and did not effect us at all.- we were able
to continue.
Went through dozens of locks and bridges, but before we set off a women -
powerful and muscular - asked us our "programme".
From then on we were escorted, shepherded and generally guided through all
locks and bridges without having to do a stroke of work ourselves.
Country still green, woods and pastures, unspoilt by man. Very attractive
indeed.
Joined locals by having at least 90 minute lunch break - lock-keepers
requested!
Ended up at Chartrys-les-Mines.
Moored up in large attractive harbour, only to find water and electricity
have been hi-jacked by Ted Johnson, and have to be paid for.
We should have had 4 fan belts waiting for us here. However, Ted Johnson,
whom I called last Saturday, used the feeble excuse that I hadn't given him
engine type and number, so couldn't order. Rubbish - subsequent conversation
(he spent at least an hour in the boat boring our pants off us) proved that he
had merely forgotten.
Told him about gear box oil leak, but again - in spite of fearsome
reputation as good engineer - didn't appear to have a clue or be terribly
interested!
Tried to get some sense into Vodaphone "re-call" service. No great
success - they appear to have been diverting our calls without authority to an
unknown number, without letting any through to us. Phoned Voda, and
complained, but might as well have been speaking to myself.
Checked a couple of hours later, and found divert still on.
Heavy rain in evening.
Dog barking continuously (in French) in farmhouse across canal - able to
shut him out by shutting back (!) door, and fortunately cool enough not to
spiflicat
May 20
Thursday
Chitry-les-Mines to Sardy.
What an extra-ordinary - and potentially disastrous - day.
Got up to teeming rain - "programme" is fill up diesel 0930, start
lock flight 10.00.
Ted Johnson never arrived so S. went to fetch him (the diesel Man).
Eventually he arrived 1020.
Had already poured 2 jerricans of red diesel into tank, so all he had to do
was fill tank and 2 cans.
Regrettably, his kit was ancient as the 2 London taxis, and 2 Rover 2.6
rusting in the bush behind his premises, and the automatic switch-off for the
pump didn't work, so we spread diesel all over the canal, the back of the
boat, and everywhere else - just missed my clothes. But anointed my tools
nicely.
Disgusting - and potentially environmentally - disgusting mess. Cleaned up
as best we could, why can't the man have working kit!?! Much Fairy liquid,
which they say is worse than the oil.
Still raining. Lock keeper had another boat waiting, but he and T.J.
arranged between them to keep him waiting.
Got a Navicarte - no 6, area we will go to after the Nivernais - this was a
GOOD THING, and as we saw it through the closed shop window of his closed
premises, was the only thing that stopped us stomping off up the canal in a
rage. Getting it actually made the whole thing worth while.
Got out into the canal - having been assured that we had the wrong engine,
in the wrong boat, with the wrong gear box, in the wrong condition, using the
wrong oil, burning the wrong diesel, in the wrong place.
Then for the rest of the day lock after lock behind large (very large)
plastic hire boat, in the pissing rain, through country that was obviously
super, but hidden behind spray from the rain. past the most disgusting cement
works that left white grit in all the rain drops on the boat.
Lunch between 1200 and 1330 breasted up to an unoccupied Locaboat hire boat
at le Grange.
Lit fire.
No place to look at there at all, and we never got off "Albert".
Eventually pulled into Sardy les Epiry onto grass but shallow moorings at
about 1600 and called it a day .
It continued to rain.
Walked up village - quite fun - sweet village with boxes of flowers
everywhere, and everything displayed - very entrepreneurial, potters,
painters, blacksmiths - but not twee.
Telephoned Jules, and got asked for directions by passing motorist - do I
really look indigenous with new very white) Tilley hat, etc?
Continued raining.
Walked back to boat - continued raining.
May 21
Friday
Sardy to Bazolles.
Got up betimes - for us - as start promised for 0930 by
lock-keepers/Minders.
Last of good porridge, but most appropriate on cold grey misty showery
morning, after rainy night.
Got into lock first and gates behind us promptly shut by piratical character
with long grey pony tail and insipient hangover.
Trudged up flight - very sad, as obviously very pretty, but very
overshadowed with large forest trees, and presence of rain clouds and mist
made it all gloomy.
With our own private lock-keeper helper - who travelled with us in his own
car along tow path, and our one gate only in and out - locks are enormous -
2.5 narrow boats wide (5 metres) and probably 45-60 metres long (Albert is 15
metres) we went up flight at speed in good order.
However, having done the 1st 5 by 11.30 we were startled to be told that we
had to let the water level recover for an hour, even though the bye washes
were running with more water than the Kennett gets down the whole river, and
it has been raining heavily for 3 days.
After a time, worked out the arithmetic. We would have been half way up the
next set of 5 locks, in a no mooring area at the sacrosanct hour of 12.30 -
knocking off for lunch time, and would not have been able to stop. Never can
any French canal worker find himself in the position of being unable to stop
for a break by reason of half completed work - better by far not to start the
work than risk that. This means that with a bit of skill 30 minute lunch
breaks last at least 1.5 hours.
Set off again after lunch at 1300. Good drill going with "minder"
now, and got to the summit at 14.30.
Tipped minder - hate this business, 5 small beers and 20 francs (£2.00) -
it demeans everyone, and means the guy gets paid twice for the same job - and
hovered at tunnel entrance (red light - one way traffic). Only about 10
minutes pause, whilst the chaps at each end gossiped.
3 tunnels, but super compared with ours - dead straight and lots of space.
However, water from the roof necessitated brolley just the same.
Finally out into day-light and a new world.
Arrived at Baye, enormous open lakes, known as "etangs" (several
hundred hectares - as big as Midmar) used for water sports, and water storage.
Still cold, grey and bleak, but no rain to-day so far, and a real joy to be
out of the glowering forest cuttings.
Stopped for cup of tea, and met French yacht (mast secured down) with
elderly couple who had obviously never seen or heard of an English Narrow
Boat. Could see their mouths working as the read and translated the side
legends. Faces total dismay and disbelief.
Carried on with noses well in air to first descending lock this trip.
Since we arrived we have been slowly ascending the Yonne Valley up the Canal
du Nivernais, and so it has been all up hill with boat being careful handled
in large locks with millions of gallons of water roaring through large paddles
to raise us up and bounce us about. The tunnel, as is usual, was the last cut
through the summit. Now it's downhill to the R. Loire, sitting in full locks,
unroped, with the boat just dropping gently as the same millions of gallons
run out. Bliss.
Dropped through Baye lock - no 1 Lock, 3 metres deep - after doing usual
bollocks scratching wait for lock-keeper to turn up, and then 1 more -
Bazolles.
Moored up - after dropping Tilley hat in water when fooling with lock-keeper
- to grassy side with rising wind in open country - Charolais and shorn
(already) sheep.
Pleasant, rural, open, and somehow more French - and what a relief after the
cutting.
Walked up to village (1 km) for provisions, and found huge agricultural
(Massey Fegusson) distributors. Asked about engine oil to book specs for boat
engine. Found (and bought 10 litres - 2 oil changes) that we have been using
correct oil for past 2 years - and that Ted Johnson's scare stories were just
that. Why is the man so well thought of here?
Got lift back to boat with oil, 10 litres = 2 gallons = too heavy to carry,
price about one third of price in UK! Didn't buy any provisions - boulangerie/epicerie
closed for 3 weeks for owners' annual holiday - or was it the bank ?
Faffed about in boat, bolting down fresh fairlead - which sods law demanded
was fractionally different in size to original - and trying to invent
disturbed water baffle for weed hatch hole to reduce prop thrash noise.
Wind dropped, but not in time to sit outside - too chilly.
May 22
Saturday
Bazolles to Chatillon-en-Bazoins
Second time of writing - lost the first one when PC battery went flat - not
amused.
Up to - becoming - usual weather pattern. So dark one suspects an eclipse,
and fine drizzle.
However, quickly cheered up a bit - cool to warm overcast, with occasional
mist rather than rain.
Lock-keeper arrived just as we got ready and opened up for us - will never
understand their system, when you expect to wait they are right there, and if
you arrive expectedly, no one turns up for an hour or more.
Countryside more open, but still meadows with buttercups up to middle of
cows - all Charolais - beautiful, always keep to-gether in heaps.
Found sheep apparently breathing it's last in canal, head propped by thorn
bush - did nothing except report at next lock - very jolly. Tried to stop
agricultural type on agricultural tractor, but the harder we waived, the
harder he did, and the faster he drove off.
Locks on this stretch magnificent - first 2 singles, then a 3 staircase
followed by 2 staircases, then 2 more singles, and as before we had our own
minder.
Extraordinary business - 2 elderly Brits chuntering along in a Narrowboat on
the canal, one young hearty fellow in van charges from lock to lock in small
van or car getting the locks ready, putting us through, and tidying up after
us.
Again, met skill on part of all workers at stopping at 1200 for a 90 minute
lunch break. No hassle to us - we're just as keen (or unkeen).
Arrived in Chatillon-en-Bazoir at about 1530, pleasant uncomplicated run in
pleasant uncomplicated country - has to be said, countryside now looks quite
French!
Last lock waiting are was actually in an aqueduct over the river. Weird
feeling, especially as river (only a small one) was in flood.
Moored up in "port" - nice leafy moorings in scenically beautiful
grounds below a lovely chateau, also with beautiful garden all round. Space -
including 5 sets of finger moorings - for lots of boats, bur had it to
ourselves.
Got electricity laid on - thought there was something wrong, but probably my
gadgets - free/
Lots of photos.
Into Chatillon - Saturday afternoon - everything, as expected, quiet to
death.
Most unjust opinion.
Found bank - complete with friendly English speaking hole in the wall. (We
are dead keen on being as native as possible, but to do A.T.M. transactions
after only 3 weeks in the country would be foolhardy).
Also found grocer, baker, butcher, deli, knitting needle shop, all open and
friendly and prepared to listen to and serve us in French, in spite of our
said French. (What a dreadful pun)
Cash so recently obtained from hole-in-the-wall soon gone. Get some more
to-morrow or Monday.
Gently back to boat - delighted to find mobile back on net, so messed about
writing and sending e-mails. Also wrote this up at length, but lost it all
(?).
Also rang mobile from call box, as suspected there were still some diverted
calls being held. Couldn't be sure, and anyway, it rang properly, so
presumably we really are in contact with the outside world.
