Wrote last - I hope - "official" letters from other life, AA Insce
and House Insce.
Then through Auxerre looking for post office, found, and bought lots of
stamps in fluent French, and posted all letters, incl Andrew’s b’day card.
(borrowed ball point off car park attendant to write, & put in post box.
Probably end up in Alanta).
Had lunch, whilst entire moorings filled up with hire boats. Rain?
English private "Kok-boat" (big nice Dutch cruiser, steel) arrived
swilling around with no place to go, so breasted him. Regrettably he could see
me performing in loo whilst he was tying up! Lucky chap!
Left him the mooring, and set off up river through Axerre Lock, where
enigmatic lock-keeper demanded vignette. Content once he’d found it.
This is the section of Nivernais keenest on K. and A. twinning. Met
Phillippe at Vaux 78 and discussed - v busy with 2 locks to do.
Really beautiful section of canal.
Tied up in rocky shallow but scenically beautiful mooring (near rly and busy
road) just after Champs sur Yonne.
Weather steadily improved - no rain after Auxerre.
Traffic noisy until about 1800, then died away - rly line very quiet.
May 11
Tuesday
Champs sur Yonne to Bailly
Woke to rain - quite heavy, but warm.
Did battery check - put quite a lot of water into engine battery, but
storage ones seemed O.K.
Set off up river (going South) at 1100, in rain which soon cleared.
Through Bailly Lock no 75 with very damp lady lock keeper. Able to do my bit
assistance wise, once boat up high enough
to climb out
- bit chary of climbing their version of
lock ladders after yesterdays’ debacle.
Tied up almost at once at Bailly Haut Nautique, in rain again, to
"visit" Bailly’s historic wine storage caves. Rain set in earnest.
Got there after lunch - morning so wet that we did virtually nothing - and
were amazed at caves - apparently 4 ha (10 acres) - quite spooky, with
bottling plant in entrance, + car park inside cave - 12th Century!
Bought a bottle each of their Sauvignon white and red. Not wildly impressed
with red - ff23.00! White ff33.00.
Met a crowd of South African women - 4 - on a hire boat, saw them in
Auxerres yesterday.
Helped them tie up, then gave them tea whilst they admired "Albert
MAY
Wednesday
Bailly to Vermonten.
Rained nearly all day, but still pleasant run through classic "lucious
meadows, with vineyards on hill sides and tops".
Got the drill of "doing our bit" at the locks - even bounced a
boat load of Americans at 1st lock after Bailly, opened paddle too fast.
Stopped at Vincelottes - raining - to do some shopping.
Terrible mooring, insufficient water along edges, but this appears to be the
norm, and our short al gang plank/ladders seem to be thoroughly adequate, and
apart from bank height, the set up is just the same as Kennet & Avon.
(Poor sods that are still battling along there - heart is pumping the lumpiest
of custard).
Usual super market shop - slightly frenetic as running short of cash.
However, seemed to have plenty, and no problems ensure - except I wanted to
wish the check-out girl (fat and greasy) "au‘voir, et merci", and
2 more customers already had their shopping in a heap at the end of the
counter amongst ours and mixed up with theirs - shame
First lock - Vincelottes 74, lock keeper wanted to sell us wine. Apparently
this is way of tipping them (The tourists tip them stupid with cash and spoil
it for the rest of us) and pretending you aren’t. Bought ff40 of Chablis -
which turned out quite nice.
Rained all afternoon - had lunch right in next lock, locks
"close3d" for dinner hour. Got "gallant" with lady
lock-keeper (crossed front teeth, below brolley), and much laughter ensued.
One is very laid back - can’t see BW letting boats into their locks to tie
up and have lunch whilst they, BW, eat. The Thames ones just glare through the
windows of their huts.
Met another K. & A.-ophile lock-keeper on first lock into Vermenton
Branch. Charles - great ami of Phillippe. Came to Devizes on visit last
year.Wants us to come to rally at the end of July.
Found whole mass of "larger" boats in Vermonten moorings.
Breasted up to some very fancy boats, particularly "la Perle" and
"Katherine of Bath" - very high and awkward - no-one to help, but
impression that we were "noticed".
Then went to office of Burgundy Cruisers, who we had met at the London Boat
Show.
Enquired about winter moorings - ff35 per metre per month + ff15 per day
electricity - or meter it, having bought your own meter! = ff525 for the
mooring, and ff465 for electricity, = ff990, = £99.00!!
However gathered from neighbours that it can be very cold here - so we’ll
see.
Wandered up town - nicely run down, and "distressed" - and bought
phone cards, and faffed around.
Visited bank, took money from cash machine - ff600 as quickly as home.
Cashed travellers’ cheque for ff500, took for ever, + commission!
Watched enormous hotel boat come in - skilfully handled! - big boat.
More rain in evening.
Bloody phone cards wouldn’t work - have we bought a pup?- £10, ff100 (2 x
50)
May 13
Thursday
Vermonten to Mailly la Ville.
Rather disturbed night - "la Perle", to whom moored up, had lots
of automatic gadgetry that kept going off in middle of night - washing
machines, central heating, bilge pumps, etc. Moral - don’t breast up unless
totally convinced boat is and will remain empty.
Morning very calm, and no rain.
Wandered around Vermonten - queried phone card, and had them elucidated!
Bought bread.
Set off about 10.30, behind hire boat (Burgundy Cruisers steel) that kept
hitting France.
Didn’t realise that there was another right behind us. Hence sandwiched in
first lock, with demonstrations. Very slow and awkward, did loo in canal on
way - yuk - but it came right. Second hire boat subsequently tried to overtake
us in the middle of a line of fishermen, but dissuaded him.
Got out of Vermonten arm, and turned left - so did both hireboats, and
another coming up main arm.
First lock - St Agnon no 70 - unmanned, so front hire boat (rear hire boat
busy arguing with France and the bank quarter of a mile (km) back - worked us
through lock himself. Somewhat nervous, as we are expressly forbidden to work
locks ourselves - why? they are dead simple, and all the kit is in very good
condition.
Through, and saw hotel boat half mile away in next lock, facing us. Tied to
bank (12.15) to have lunch - good mooring, plenty of depth - unusual??
Countryside superb. Great areas of arable/vineyard/bush visible all the time
from the boat.
Eventually, after 90 minutes lock-keeper in van arrived to ask us when we
wanted to "monte". Reasonably obvious. "maintenant".
He disappeared, and in due course hotel boat wandered past - qutr km per
hour - clouted bridge hole in passing and we went on up to our 3rd lock
to-day, at 1415.
Gates open, lock empty, hire boat having lunch just before. Wished them
"bon appetite" on way past, and they all thanked me gravely (meant
to be a joke).
Went on up (hire boat followed in, in mass of wine bottles, ropes, etc, but
tied up right after to finish lunch) and subsequently we had a pleasant
afternoon’s boating, with no accompanying nightmares or worries.
Passed boat yard with amongst others - NB "Otter". Belongs to
Frenchman (Dutchman).
Arrived in Mailly la Ville about 1630, after unstressful, and fairly
unenergetic, day, and as the village had 2 big pontoons with reasonable depth,
and facilities (water and electricity) decided to stop, have cup of tea and
think. (Didn't want facilities, but no matter).
Had tea, decided to stay - decision helped by our 2 favourite hirers going
through village.
Wandered round village - this one, like others - charming, centred and based
entirely on river, and most attractive.
Eventually, and inevitably, both pontoons filled up with boats (our
neighbours came from Lancashire, and knew the Leeds and Liverpool well) to the
extent that one late comer had to breast up to us whilst watering, before
going off somewhere else to moor up.
Heavy rain set in during major gossip session on bank, including owner of
"Otter".
Telephone call with card worked!
Our French is nor "improving" - but we are certainly using it.
May 14
Friday
Mailly la Ville to Merry sur Yonne.
Pissed with rain for most of night - trouble with continuous rain is the
sound makes you want pee continuously.
Good thing went round all ventilators with silicone sealer in March before
re-painting roof cream, when the chimney leaked.
Once again late off - a pattern would appear to be emerging.
Off at 10.30, after wiping down outside left, front and back ends - hoovered
some of sand and gravel off floor introduced from chalky gravel toe-paths and
lock surrounds.
Got some 300 yards (300 metres) to lock, to find lock-keeper
"gone".
Waited about 45 mins, then local put us and another boat through, but when
lock-keeper did arrive, he got a raspberry.
Away about 11.15, to Mailly le Chateau.
Stopped on tow path bank. 4 peg moor up, because bank made ground, and soft.
Even so, no sooner stopped than 2 cowboys in plastic "pinochettes"
roared past shaking and rocking boat much better. The slow down sign, used
universally on British Waterways, merely evoked a similar sign from very
puzzled looking signer. There is no such thing as a slow down sign
here-abouts, so live with it!
Object of stop was to visit fabulous village and chateau up on chalk cliffs
100 metres above navigation. VERY imposing, and beautiful - very French (not
unnaturally) architecture - steep tiled roofs, small shuttered windows, all
with "distressed" plaster cover or accurately cut chalk stone
blocks.
Enjoyed steep climb up - after visiting shrine to St Nicholas (patron Saint
of river travellers) to fabulous views of country side, river and boats.
Well worth hard climb - curious how everything is clean and neat with no
graffiti or litter, but no sanitising or large forbidding signs.
As it was mid-day to 1330, village was largely lifeless - but no less
pleasant for that.
Back to boat - lunch on bank under observation of large plastic hire boat,
who had done braai for lunch whilst we were up the village.
Continued on in the afternoon, but not totally comfortable - we were getting
close to turn around points and turn around days on French national long
week-end for hire fleets at Chatel Censoir, so navigation crowded.
After lunch start-up fanbelt refused to grip, so had to stop to tighten.
WARNING??
At Raverua 60, a DIY lock, we turned it around, 1 gate and nipped in.
Not fast enough - 4 plastic aircraft carriers arrived from downstream, and
gestured imperiously to be let in.
We signalled and come and man it yourselves!
It would have been quicker to have played "lock-keeper" and seen
then through, but really! - idle, arrogant sods.
Eventually got them out of their boats, and up we went.
Let 2 of them overtake us straight after - better to see them, than be
looking over your shoulder.
Through Merry sur Yonne - more cliffs and Alpine Schools - rock face
littered with climbers, ropes, etc.
Passed water sports area - they swim in this water - how often I ask myself
before they die (even the rats would refuse Weil's disease germs. We have a
ceremonial emptying of - enough, let us think of something else).
Through Rechimet 59, last in, much more comfortable than first, even though
2 drunken gongoozelers tried to direct operations.
Found nice lonely spot just after and tied up for night and let all hire
boats through.
4 peg tie up again - ground still soft.
Re-tightened fan belt - slightly worried, as wear on belt very apparent, and
upon it depends our electricity, as well as engine cooling. However,
Drinks in chairs and sun on bank.
May 15
Saturday
Merry sur Yonne to Pousseaux
Enjoyed quiet night - and pegs in bank held.
Beautiful sunny early morning - steam off canal, almost cloudless sky - got
up in shorts and shirt only.
Intended early start became late start - as usual, and got ourselves into
Chatel Sensoir.- about 11.45.
Tied up just after Chatel Lock, to do something sensible about fan belts.
(We actually had 4 spare on board, and after putting one on first thing,
that still left 3. The first one had taken 2 weeks cruising to die, so
arguable that we have sufficient for 2 months - however, we've got to have
something to worry about.
Large hire boat on opposite bank - very proper, Military, and Naval inviting
us to take a glass of wine at 1100 because they were bored and broken down.
Discovered mobile on net again, so sent e-mail to A. re the phantom caller
on the mobile. Stuffed it up, due to trying to do PC in sun (can't read the
screen) and too fast hire boat passing and rocking boat (breaks IR beam) -
much angst and cerfuffle.
Tried call box with tel card - much better than angst-ridden e-mail - got C.
and asked about phantom mobile phone caller.
After much committee meeting, asked around at cruiser base (opposite bank)
about fan belts, whilst S. went to visit local Church, and buy bread.
The cruiser base - all these hire firms are run by English - suggested we
tried a base 2 days up the canal - "they kept everything" - so rang
them - we are getting quite good at the French tel cards - and left message on
answering machine.
Had lunch - French bread and proper butter are themselves a good reason for
living here - and wandered along canal (with boat, of course).
Countryside simply beautiful - and, of course, very unEnglish in
indeterminate manner.
Lock keeper at "la Place" (female - about half of them are) was
selling things, so regarded pixies, snow white, etc, pottery and all, and
bought some red wine.
Young lock keeper at Lucy sur Yonne lock took pity on us (uniform of lock
keepers is vest, boxer shorts and tackies - tell that to British Waterways),
and decided we weren't fit to be on our own, so saw us through the next 4
locks - including a DIY one. He even decided where the best place to sleep
was, and he turned out to be right. Tied up at Port de Plaisance at
Pousseaux - bit cut out of land by canal, with bollards, water, braii
tables, ablution block, etc.
la Place (la Place Lock) red wine only just drinkable - but then so is
most of the wine we buy at our price in England.
Settled happily on our own at the mooring, but about 2000 the crest of the
hire fleet (Saturday is change over day) hit us - working back, we suspect
the "helpful" lock keeper just wanted us out of his way when above
crest hit him. 2 aircraft carriers arrived.
Cool evening - sat outside for supper, but a bit chilly.
May 16
Sunday.
Pousseaux to Clamecy
Bright sunny start, but although remained bright & sunny, got
progressively colder.
Through 2 locks only, both in towns with an apparent touch of seediness
about them (probably unfair comment - everywhere else that we have passed has
been so fabulous, that even approaching the norm invites criticism) into
Clamercy by lunch time.
Most peculiar entry into Clamecy - 2kms out canal and river divide, as at
numerous other places, and a very strange notice with a picture of an old type
double ended galleas pointed rather enigmatically in the river direction. The
canal appeared to enter a lock, which looked fine from a distance - but so-so
when closer.
Followed river which widened into lake, completely and darkly overshadowed
by trees.
Without doubt, the haunts of pirates who were - equally doubtlessly -
waiting to ravish us.
Survived, and after passing the odd allotment garden showing through forest,
debouched into Clamecy- modern, clean, couple of factories, clean no litter,
no graffiti.
Moored up to railings separating street and river, along with several hire
boats (bateaux de locations). Uncomfortable - very high - S battled to climb
and negotiate step ladder and railings at top (no gateway), especially under
supervision of plastic aircraft carrier carring 10 Germans, who were studying
her knickers at 25 metres. (Was it for this that we won the war, I ask
myself?)
Wandered around, and found nice little "port de plaisance" above
lock.
Unmoored - thankfully - went through to cries of "joli bateau"
from the onlookers generally (favourite gongoozle spot, right in centre of
town) and the lock-keeper in particular - thus proving that he was very good
at his job - and moored up in the "port" after a complicated 3 point
turn. (quite unnecessary, but had to show the folks that we could drive as
well look good).
Changed moorings a couple of times, as the weather changed hour by hour,
from hot sunny, cool windy sunny, and overcast cold.
Decided to stay in town - excuse was that it was too late for supermarket
to-day. They close at 1200, and this was the last chance to stock up properly
before going into the "backwoods of the Upper Yonne, where villages are
few and far from the canal, and towns don't exist.
Wandered round town some more, very old half timbered and heavily shuttered
houses everywhere.
Decided that to-day would be a good evening to sup out. It wasn't. Sunday is
quiet anywhere, and the only place interested was a row of tables outside the
"Post" . There is a "Poste" in every town in France.
Had a couple of beers, then looked at menu. Looked reasonable for
foreigners, so selected.
1 hour later we were duly ushered into Dining Room. Shades of Cheltenham
Spa. Far too grand for us, but fortunately we were reasonably respectably
dressed, as the French undoubtedly put us to shames sartorially, especially
during the hour of the promenade.
It has to be admitted, once the fact that one accepts that the French, in
the proper place, take their food very seriously, and discuss it at length
when ordering - then start on the wine - do it all incredibly well, and
skilfully.
Having had plenty of beer, we didn't want lots of unknown wine so settled
for water - ordinaire (ouch).
Eventually, we had a superb formal dinner - the next door table brought his
dog in and the waiter fed it bowls of water whilst it licked those places dogs
lick - and an English consultant back doctor told his French colleague/host
what a mighty fine doctor he was in a carrying voice in English - with graphic
descriptions of injections (quite weird, they arrived on very hot motorcycles
of the kind that make Andrew's look like a Vespa) .
In spite of all this, and the fact that we had to sit more or less still for
3.5 hours, it was - if expensive - a good dinner.
